This will be the final status update until after Handworks in May.  At that time, we won’t be giving an “update” so much as an explanation of what’s been taking so long with the routers.  We know people are waiting and we feel they deserve an honest report of our activities over the past several months.

In the meantime, we are in the process of getting 100 routers ready to ship, many of which we plan to have at Handworks for people to take home.  We’ve also been working on some new tools and some website updates.  Our Compass Guides have recently been released and we have something else we’re hoping to debut at or shortly after Handworks.  Maybe some T-shirts in the near future as well if you’re into that sort of thing.

For our website, we’ve been operating off a 4-year-old wordpress theme and it’s been having more and more issues pop up over time.  We’ve been working updating the site and have made significant progress (though it’s largely transparent to the general public).  One thing we do hope to get operational soon is the ability to have international orders calculated and charged accurately.  It can be relatively expensive to ship tools internationally and we don’t want to overcharge our customers, nor do we want to take a significant hit by underbilling.  For now, we’ve asked international customers to email us their order requests so we can calculate shipping accordingly, but in the long run we expect the automated calculator to work better for everyone.

So that’s all for now.  Expect to hear about the routers as we approach Handworks.  If we take any orders before the show you’ll hear about it on our blog and Instagram feed.

-WMT

In our previous post, we discussed using other manufacturer’s cutters in our 2500 router plane.  Why would you want to use another manufacturer’s cutter?  Because right now we only have one size, 1/2″ square tipped.  We may offer a spear point, possibly one other size like 1/4″, but that may be a little while and we currently have no plans to offer the wide range of sizes companies like Veritas produce.  Fortunately, it is possible to use many other cutters in our router… unfortunately it requires a permanent modification to that cutter: adding a secondary notch.

Adding the second notch isn’t hard, but take your time and check the fit often.

The reason for this second notch is simple; without it you won’t be able to take a cut less than 1/2″-1″ deep depending on the cutter you’re using.  That’s not good considering almost any cut you’d want to make with a narrow blade will tend to be very shallow.  (This is usually where people ask why we didn’t just make the threaded posts taller like other router planes… it’s because the 2500’s cutter can move to the side positions and a taller post would stick up through the handles, so they have to be somewhat short.  This is true of the original Preston design as well.)  So, by adding a secondary notch you can use many other manufacturer’s blades.  Lie-Nielsen is a no-go because they use a square shank, but any diamond shank measuring around 3/8″ square should fit.  To make this notch you will likely need to use a Dremel tool with a grinding wheel which can be further refined with diamond files if you have them.  Standard files won’t work (at least not on Veritas’ cutters) as the shanks are heat treated.  Work slowly, keep the notch as square as possible, and check your progress frequently.

A variety of cutters, from left to right: a vintage Record, an unaltered Veritas, the WMT cutter, and finally a modified Veritas.

The notch is technically 0.155″ tall and 0.130″ deep, but that doesn’t really matter.  What matters is making it just tall enough to fit around the depth adjustment nut and deep enough that it won’t bottom out on the adjustment nut.  There should be clearance all the way around the nut when installed and clamped down.  The position of the notch is about 0.8″ below the top notch, but that’s on the Veritas cutter.  It may differ on other cutters based on how tall the shank is.  Basically make the notch such that the adjustment nut keeps the cutting edge of the blade slightly above the sole of the tool (so no cutting occurs) when it’s at it’s maximum height.  Then as you lower the nut, you start to take a cut which naturally gets thicker as the nut drives the blade lower and lower.  When you bottom the nut out on the body of the tool, you should be able to move back to the upper notch and continue.  It’s a good idea to layout the notch and check all these positions before actually cutting the blade.

Location of the second notch, just under 13/16″ below the upper notch for a Veritas cutter.

This vintage Record cutter would also work well in the WMT 2500 router.

Now for a few important notes, disclaimers, etc.  The most obvious thing to state here is you’re modifying these cutters at your own risk.  Second, the Veritas cutters neck-down on the shank width fairly high up which means you aren’t getting the usual amount of support for the cutter when it’s clamped in the tool.  As a result, you may find it doesn’t align perfectly straight every time or can shift if pushed on hard enough.  For me, this has been a minor inconvenience at the most.  I make sure the blade is straight as I clamp it in place, if it’s not I simply turn it slightly with my fingers until it looks good, then clamp it down.  At that point it shouldn’t shift.  Yes, it’s possible if you push on it sideways with high force, but small blades are typically only going to see light forces and usually take them head on, not side ways.  Finally, you obviously can’t rotate the cutter 90 deg in the side positions simply by adding a notch.  This is true, but I would ask why would you want to?  Smaller cutters are generally for smaller work so using it in the standard middle position is ideal.  For larger sweeping cuts where the 90 deg rotation is desirable, use our cutter.

Note the narrowing effect of the Veritas cutter.

This is roughly the starting point for the blade where a flush cut would be taken. Notice how there isn’t a lot of supporting material on the shank to align the cutter in the V-groove.

The narrow cutter installed with the added notch. Not too shabby.

And that’s all there is to it.  A small change to cutters many of you probably already own or can purchase at a reasonable price and routing in any sized area becomes nbd (that’s “no big deal” folks).

-WMT

After making the phone clamp to mount my phone to a tripod I decided to add a boom arm as well.  This is extremely useful for top-down shooting, reaching over the bench for videos, or just keeping the tripod farther away so I don’t kick its legs while I’m working.  The arm is 30″ long overall and has an effective reach of about 24″.  There isn’t much to cover in the general design of the arm.  I used one brass insert, installed in the same manner that was described in the phone clamp post.  The slots along the arm obviously allow the clamp to get positioned anywhere over its length.  One detail worth mentioning is what I call the “head” which is to one side of the brass insert vs. the “arm” which is on the other.  You’ll notice I left the head large (about 6″ x 2″ x 3/4″) where as the arm gets thinner, narrower, and has the slot material removed.  This is to allow the head to counterbalance the long reach of the arm.  It’s not perfectly balanced, but it helps a lot. I can add the weight of the clamp and phone all the way to the end of the arm and things stay nicely in place, however I am considering adding a brass weight to the head to improve the balance further.

Roughing out the shape of the arm.

Brass insert installed, holes added to define the ends of the slots.

Slots roughed in, ready for a test drive.

Tripod mounting plate installed on the boom arm.

Testing the arm before final clean up and finishing.

Close up of the test shot.

Completed boom arm in Sapele, finished in Watco danish oil.

Finished shot of the arm and slot details.

For now I used a simple 1/4×20 Allen head screw with a knurled head to attach the clamp. It’s a bit small, but I can use it as a thumb screw, no need for an Allen wrench. Eventually I may switch to a proper thumb screw with a larger head, but this works well enough for the moment.

Detail shot of the underside of the arm.

These two simple accessories have already made things so much simpler in the shop for shooting pictures and especially videos.  Each one took only a couple hours to make so if you’re doing a lot of phone/camera juggling in the shop take some time and make these two pieces.  Or don’t.  This is America people, what you do in your shop is your business.

Cheers, -WMT

I recently got around to making some accessories for my tripod (a phone mount/clamp and a boom arm for said clamp) to make life easier when shooting video in the shop.  I’ve wanted to do this for about a year now, but only just got around to it.  After sharing some pictures via Instagram I got several requests for selling or sharing plans for these two accessories, but we’re not in the phone/camera business so we don’t plan on selling them.  We are in the hope-this-makes-your-life-better-for-free business, however, so enjoy.  This first post will cover the phone holder (a.k.a. clamp) that mounts the phone to the tripod.  The next entry will cover the boom arm attachment.

Disclaimer:  If you make a phone holder/clamp like ours be aware there’s nothing to stop you from cranking down on the nut and cracking your screen… use common sense because we won’t be replacing any phones.

The holder is based on our Drawer Slip Clamps and uses one standard set of stainless steel hardware.  The jaws are 4″ long and 3/4″ thick just like our clamps, but to hold the phone they were made wider at 2″ (this was to hold an iPhone 6s, your phone may be different so size the width accordingly).  Brass inserts were installed in the bottom and end of the clamp for the tripod attachment plate and a 3/4″ notch was cut out of the sliding jaw to provide access to the Home and Photo button on the phone.  Finally, some thick leather was glued (I used contact cement) on the ends of the jaws to provide some extra grip and cushion.

The fixed jaw gets drilled and tapped to receive the threaded rods. The tap table keeps everything perfectly perpendicular.

With the sliding jaw roughed out, two clearance holes were drilled for the threaded rod to pass through, then a 3/4″ hole was bored out for access to the Home button. After drilling the hole, cut through to the end to form the U-shaped notch.

I don’t love brass inserts and avoid them when possible, but this application was well suited for them. To install the inserts accurately, I threaded a 1/4-20 post into the insert, then jammed a nut against the insert to lock everything in place…

Next, I chucked this assembly into the drill and applied downward pressure while turning the chuck by hand. This kept the insert from threading in crooked.

The inserts installed cleanly, but I left the split portion proud of the jaw so I could grind it flush. FYI- if you try to use a flathead screwdriver to install the insert you will likely snap it.

The completed clamp, inserts ground flush.

The U-notch allows access to the Home button and Photo button.

Final product, made from Sapele and finished with Watco danish oil.

Close up of the leather padding.

This is the standard camera attachment piece that comes with most tripods. The 1/4×20 screw normally gets threaded directly into the bottom of the camera, but phone’s don’t include that feature… hence the reason for this build.

Here’s the basic setup. The tripod’s attachment piece screws into the clamp via the brass inserts. The clamp holds the phone, and this entire assembly gets mounted to the tripod.

 

There you have it, the phone mounted to the tripod.

Put out a camera, my daughters instantly strike a pose.

The 1/4×20 inserts can also mount directly into desk-top tripods, double bonus.

It’s been several months since the last router-related blog post, we were busy finalizing the prototypes and preparing for two Lie-Nielsen events we just wrapped up in Philly and Cinci.  So a quick status on the tools: pre-orders are now available on our site as most of you know already and we’re just waiting on our final pattern changes to come in so we can place our production order at the foundry.  We will soon be finishing our cutter prototype and ramping up production on everything else.  Tools are set to begin shipping in June.

Now for the overview of blade positioning in the 2500 router.  This is by far the most distinguishing feature of the 2500 when compared to the #71 that Stanley made so popular.  With the 71, the blade mounts in the center and can, in certain versions of the tool, be mounted on the back of the center post to give an open throat or bullnose style setup.  Preston’s 2500P could mount the blade in four locations: standard closed throat, reverse open throat (or bullnose), inboard of the right-hand post, and outboard of the left-hand post.  When mounted on the left or right-hand post, the cutter could only face to the left, perpendicular to the standard direction of cutting.  This allowed the tool to be pushed sideways, presumably for working on narrower edges or in situations where a short-wide sole interfered with something on the work piece but and long-narrow sole did not.

blade in the standard closed-throat position

Blade in open throat position

Inboard position on right-hand post

Outboard position on left-hand post

The WMT 2500 router maintains the same four blade positions, but we’ve added the ability to rotate the cutter in 90 deg increments when positioned on the left or right-hand posts.  This allows the user to hang to tool over an edge and make sweeping cuts, such as when working with tenons.  Many woodworkers have done this with the 71, but you can only go out about 1.5″ before the tool becomes unstable.  Then the standard practice is to support the other end of the tool with a block of wood that matches the height of your work piece so the tool doesn’t tip… of course problems arise if the support block isn’t exactly the same thickness of your work piece.  You also have to take the time to get a piece of scrap and size it accordingly.  With the 2500, you can simply move the blade to the side position, rotate the cutter 90 deg, and hanging the tool out 5″ or more is no problem.

Cleaning up a large tenon with the cutter rotated in the outboard position.  Note how well the tool is supported on the work piece despite the fact that this tenon is over 2.5″ long.

Before wrapping this up there are a few details I’d like to point out.  First is simply that the cutter shown in these pictures is not our production design.  We are still finishing the prototype and will cover that in more detail once it’s ready.  Second is that the minimum depth of cut is limited when the blade is in the outer post positions AND rotated 90 deg.  The tip of the cutter needs to stick down almost 3/16″ so that the top of the cutter clears the sole of the tool.  At first glance you might think, “Why not machine a pocket into the body of the tool that the cutter recess into?” And that’s a fair question.  Here’s why we left it alone.  Machining into the sole that deep and that wide breaks through the inner corner of the casting and looks awful.  Adding more material in that area to prevent this also looks confusing and poorly designed.  Next is cost.  Milling a pocket in the side of the tool would require another setup and more time which means more money.  But the final and most important reason for not bringing the cutter higher into the body is because it really didn’t seem necessary.  Small shoulders (less than 3/16″ deep) are typically found on smaller scale work where the tenons don’t stick out very far, simply use the tool in its normal configuration.  Long tenons, where you’d want to move the blade out and overhang the work piece quite a distance, are typically found on larger scale work which means the shoulder will generally be 1/4″ deep or more and the minimum depth of cut won’t pose any problems.

Until next time, -WMT

WMT will be guest demonstrators at the Lie-Nielsen hand tool event this weekend just outside Cincinnati.  We will have our prototype 2500 router to try out and will be taking pre-orders.  If you can’t make it to the show, orders can also be placed on our website beginning at noon on Wednesday, March 9th.  Hope to see you there.

For a long time I had a hard time calling myself a “woodworker”.  I have no formal training and no certificates or diplomas to support such a claim.  So to go around saying “I’m a legitimate woodworker” just because I pushed some tools through wood before (or vice versa) felt like an insult to those who truly put in the time and effort to become proficient in the craft.  But I really enjoyed working with wood and hand tools and building furniture, so I continued working and learning until eventually I felt comfortable acknowledging that yes, I am in fact a “woodworker” or “furniture maker”, etc.

On the other hand, I was formally trained as a mechanical engineer which included working with various metal lathes, mills, and other equipment, all of which I enjoyed using, but since graduating college I’ve had little to no access to such equipment.  So unlike woodworking, where I had tools and a lack of skill, when it came to working with metal I had skill and no tools.  Until now that is.  Being partner in a toolmaking business finally gave me a good excuse to purchase a metal lathe, a dream lathe really, and set it up on the non-woodworking side of my shop.  I even have space for a mill to go next to it someday, if I can figure out how to get one down there.

Anyway, the ability to make custom parts, tooling, prototype hardware, or anything else I feel like making is a huge benefit for the business and I love being able to put my metal working background to use again.  So without further reading (yawn), here’s a few shots of the most recent addition to my shop.  And because every lathe seems to operate a little differently, I included some basic descriptions of what each lever and dial is used for.

Rockwell 11×36 Lathe

Clean, level, and ready for work.

The carriage assembly with the cross and compound slide. The bottom lever engages the auto feed. The middle lever selects between auto-feeding the carriage, cross slide, or screw chaser. And if you’re in screw chasing mode, the lever on the right engages the drive when the correct number is aligned.

Detailed shot of the headstock. The lever on the left is for the auto feed. 3 positions for forward drive, backwards, or neither (head spins only, not the auto feed screw). The two tumblers (levers) at the bottom change the gearing for different feed rates. The large handle on the upper-right area near the chuck is for selecting direct drive, back gearing, neutral, or locked.  Additionally, spindle itself can also be driven forward or reverse.

The drive selector lever can be used for driving the spindle directly from the motor belts (position shown), putting the spindle in neurtal so it spins freely (if you need to rotate a part around for inspecting, laying something out, etc), locking the spindle (typically for chuck removal), or driving the spindle via the back gears.

The back gears cut the spindle RPM and increase the torque by a 6:1 ratio. This is desirable for screw cutting, knurling, or high-torque applications. The lever also allows for forward or reverse drive of the auto feed screw or it can be left neutral so only the spindle is turning.

Adjusting the RPM of the lathe is as simple as turning the wheel. Notice there are two sets of numbers on the dial, one for direct drive and one for drive through the back gears (1/6 the RPM)

One last detail is the custom drawers the previous owner had installed. Beautiful work and it adds plenty of storage.

A quick shot of my main measuring and inspecting drawer.

And here’s the tooling that came with the lathe. I’m sure I’ll be adding to this over time, but there’s plenty here to get started with.  The other drawers are largely empty right now, storing only a few miscellaneous items, some rags, and the manual for the lathe.

And if the drawers aren’t enough, I still have the default drawer. Maybe for some extra chucks or collets down the line.

That’s the jist of it.  And if you noticed that chart on the right of the second lathe picture, it’s an extremely handy Starrett drilling and tapping chart.  It’s the simplest, most complete one I’ve ever used so if you’ve never seen it before, download it here.

If you have any questions or are looking for the manual for this lathe feel free to leave a comment or send us an email.  Merry Christmas. -WMT

Securing the blade at any given position in a router plane is a simple but critical task the tool must perform.  It should be easy, fast, and require no tools as it will be adjusted often.  It also needs to hold the blade securely so it doesn’t shift during use.  To accomplish these goals a few basic elements of the tool need to be understood.  As far as I know, all metal-bodied router planes secure their blades using one of two methods: either using a thumb screw to tighten down a blade-locking collar (typically on larger planes) or by driving a screw directly against the blade shank itself to clamp it against the body of the tool (common on smaller scale planes).  Note that wooden-bodied routers often use a wedge to lock the blade.

Thumb screw behind the tool pulls the collar tight against the blade shank, clamping it to the body.

Next is the geometry of the blade shank itself: round, diamond, and square.

Top view of the three typical shank configurations.

A round shank allows the blade to be positioned at any angle (which is rarely, if ever, necessary), but it can rotate unexpectedly during use which is completely undesirable.  It’s the cheapest method of manufacturing, however, as it requires only a simple hole in the body with a screw running into the side of the shank to lock it down.  And while this isn’t typically seen on larger tools which see much higher cutting forces in use, it does appear on many small scale router planes where the reduced force is usually not a problem and the blade won’t spin in the body… much.  If you are having trouble with a round shank that spins, scuff up the sides of the shank along its length with course sandpaper, that will typically do the trick.

This small router plane from Record uses a round shank secured with a screw.

The Diamond shank (where the shank face is rotated 45 deg to the cutting edge) is the most common configuration for large router planes for two reasons.  First, the non-roundness of the body means it won’t rotate during use.  Second, the diamond, which gets drawn into a V-notch in the body, is self centering and self aligning.  It can’t rotate, tilt, or shift side to side.

Veritas, like Stanley, Record, and Millers Falls, uses the Diamond configuration for its blade shank.

The only downside is that when the collar is loosened so the depth of cut can be adjusted, the collar tends to fall down the body, sometimes binding on the blade making the adjustment a bit of a headache.  Modern manufacturers have resolved this in two ways.  Veritas uses a spring-loaded collar so that while the clamping pressure is removed during depth adjustments, there is enough pressure to hold the collar where it belongs and it functions very well.  Lie-Nielsen did away with the collar entirely, opting to apply pressure to the shank directly with a brass screw which again, works perfectly.  Preston fixed their collar problem by trapping the collar in position with a locating pin which is incorporated into the collar locking screw itself.

Notice how the tip of the collar locking screw (collar removed for visibility) is essentially a pin which locates in a hole in the body. This means when pressure is removed from the blade for depth of cut adjustments the collar won’t flop around or bind up on the shank as it’s moving.

The Square configuration (where the shank face is parallel to the cutting edge) is rare.  Lie-Nielsen uses it, but they drive a screw against the edge of the shank, not its face.  This pushes the blade into the back corner of the body, essentially clamping it against a V-notch just like the diamond shank blades.  Preston, however, typically used a square shank with a collar that simply pulls the shank tight against its back face.

Lie-Nielsen’s square shank is driven into a corner with the brass screw mounted at 45 degrees.

The Preston router simply pulls the back face of the blade shank against the tool body.  It is not held in a V of any kind which can result in blade shift during use.

The problem with the Preston method is there must be clearance between the side faces of the shank and the notch in the body.  As a result, nothing constrains the shank except the friction between the shank and body which is produced by the collar.  During heavy cuts, the blade can shift laterally or tilt slightly, neither of which is acceptable.  For our design, we’re using the preferred Diamond configuration, but we are going to utilize Preston’s clever pin locator on the collar screw to keep the collar in position when loosened.

Next time, blade positioning.  It’s exciting stuff…

-WMT

Various profiles and materials being tested for our router plane knobs.

Producing handles or knobs for any tool is a tricky thing.  Everyone’s hand is a little different as are their preferences as to what “feels” right.  It’s not surprising then that with the six router planes we studied the shape, diameter, and height of the knobs were all different.  Stanley, for instance, had the shortest and fattest knob while Millers Falls had the tallest and second narrowest.  Lie-Nielsen’s knob fell right in the middle of height and diameter and I would say theirs is the most balanced of them all.  Veritas, on the other hand, was the most unique with handles that tilt roughly 30 deg off vertical and were some of the tallest in the group.

The knobs on five different router planes, no two are alike.

The Preston 2500P knobs were unusual due to the fact that they are designed to be quickly unscrewed and moved to different positions on the tool (more on that in a later post).  The knob itself is not very tall, but its height ends up right in the middle of the other planes because of how the body is designed.  The diameter, however, is by far the smallest of the six measuring only slightly larger than 1.5″ where as the others average about 1.7″.  That may not sound like a lot, but you can feel the difference as soon as you put the tool to work.  This left us with a decision to make; remain as faithful to the original as possible or deliver what we think is the best all-around knob we can.  Ultimately we decided to leave it up to our customers.  We’re going to offer knobs that are replicas of the original as well as knobs based off the Stanley which are a little over 1.75″ in diameter and have a mushroom style profile.  The Stanley was our personal favorite among the all the profiles we tested so we wanted to make them available, but offering the Preston style has historical significance and will undoubtedly be preferred by some portion of the woodworkers out there.  We will also be happy to sell either style knob to those of you who may own an original Preston plane with knobs that need to be replaced.

An original Preston knob compared to the WMT version.

An original Preston 2500P outfitted with the Stanley-style knobs.  The original style are in front.

So that’s the story behind the knobs.  We haven’t finalized our material yet (feel free to comment on cherry vs. walnut), but we will be offering two styles which hopefully counts for something.  Next time we’ll discuss a few changes we’ve made to the original design and how that benefits the user.

-WMT

WMT will soon be releasing our newest tool, the No. 2500 router plane, which is based on the Preston 2500P.  Because there are so many details to cover on this tool we will be sharing a series of blog posts roughly once a week, each of which will cover one readily digestible chunk of information at a time.

I’d like to get the fundamentals out of the way up front before talking about the features and benefits of the tool compared to what already exists today, so lets get started.  First are the physical dimensions of the tool.  As far as we know, our router plane will have the largest footprint to ever hit the market.  When studying several new and vintage planes, most of which are based on the Stanley No. 71, their soles ranged in width from 5-5/8″ to 8-1/4″ with the average measuring about 7-1/2″ wide. However, these planes all have soles that are longest in the center and then diminish as you get towards the outside edges of the tool.  This makes the tool less useful when straddling a large surface, such as leveling the face of a tenon.  The length of the sole on the Preston, which measures slightly more than 8-1/4″ wide, remains constant over its width (aka: a rectangle).  The sole of our router plane was bumped up to an even 8-1/2″ x 3-1/2″.

The Preston 2500P body compared to the widest 71-style we found, this one from Millers Falls.

The Preston body compared to the narrowest body from Veritas which measures only 5-5/8″ wide.

And while some may think a small sole is no big problem because a secondary wooden sole can be attached to most planes making it any size you want, you’re correct… sort of.  A secondary sole is one more thing you have to make and you need to keep it as thin as possible so the tool’s depth of cut isn’t greatly reduced.  However, a thin secondary sole that isn’t well supported will deflect, which can make the cutting action of the tool range from problematic to useless.  By having a large rectangular sole, adding a secondary sole isn’t as necessary, but when it is desired it is well supported even at a minimum thickness.

The next detail is one of the thing’s we’re most excited about: offering the tool in manganese bronze.  Again, as far as we know, this is a first among router planes.  The bronze not only looks fantastic, but there are the added benefits of extra weight (this will be the heaviest router plane ever sold) and zero concerns when it comes to corrosion.  It was not easy to find a suitable foundry for casting this tool in bronze, but persistence paid off and we’re proud to make it our mainline offering (we may or may not offer ductile iron in the future).  The non-bronze components will either be brass or stainless steel, with the one obvious exception of the cutter which will be O1.

One final detail I’ll throw in is our removal of one part of the original Preston design.  The doo-hicky (that’s its technical name) on the front is quite confusing in appearance as well as function.  It is comprised of a small casting which can move front-to-back in a pair of slots and is locked down with two small screws.  Once locked down, a threaded post can be raised or lowered, then locked in position.  I figured this could be used as a crude depth stop, but then why make it adjustable front-to-back?  I emailed Paul Sellers about this as he’s a big proponent of the Preston style router (and if you don’t follow his blog I’d recommend it) and he said it was designed as a guide when running the tool in a recess to prevent the cutter from gouging the side wall.  I still don’t understand why it needs to slide a fraction of an inch in slots though… possibly as a throat-closing device of some sort as I read some speculate online, but this seems like a poor way to go about it and downright unnecessary.  The added cost and tools required to make an adjustment made it hard to justify keeping in our version of the tool.  It also blocks visibility and isn’t included in Preston’s 1399P model router, so we decided to eliminate it.  If you’re wondering why ours is a model 2500 and not a 1399, it’s because we are including the adjust fence which was never available on the 1399P.

The awkward adjustable gizmo on the Preston 2500P.

That’s all for now, but we still have knobs, cutter configuration, cutter orientation and more to discuss in the following weeks so stay tuned.  And as a status report, our patterns are being made and hardware is being prototyped.  We should have the hardware within a week, but the patterns will take roughly a month to complete.  Then we’ll get our first look at the castings.

-WMT